MORAL BEES
Frequently Asked Questions
Answers to Your Questions
How do I install my queen?
Place the queen cage horizontally between the top bars of your frames in the center of the brood nest.
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The bees will eat the queen candy plug and the queen will be released in 36-72 hours depending on conditions.
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Signs the queen HAS been accepted:
-bees feeding the queen through the cage.
-run your finger across cage and bees move easily
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Signs the queen HAS NOT been accepted:
- bees attempting to bite or sting (abdomen down) the queen through the cage.
-run finger across cage and bees hold on tightly.
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Help! I need a queen RIGHT NOW
Maybe. Maybe not.
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I don't want you to waste your money.
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Signs you need a queen...
-Queen missing and there's no eggs or larva in the hive during spring, and summer.
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Things to look for and consider when deciding to purchase an emergency queen...
-Emergency queens are less likely to be accepted than a queen purchased as replacements or to be used to make a split because several things could be happening including laying workers, or a virgin in the hive.
-You may have a virgin in the hive. Look for her. She could be on a mating flight so check several times at different times of day.
-If your hive is honey bound you may not be aware that you have a laying worker hive because the laying workers have no place to lay.
-See LAYING WORK HIVE Topic.
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If you are having trouble and purchased your bees from me feel free to contact me. Otherwise your local bee inspector is your best contact.
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Here is a great video from NC State University about how to tell if you have or need a replacement queen. Continue watching to find out more about what goes into raising queens.
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How do I transport and install my nuc?
I try to provide nucs with lots of brood and just enough honey so they can explode in population and have enough food stores to feed the emerging bees. **You will want to feed them as soon as you get them installed and continue until they are ready for their first winter** The brood & bees can overheat when closed up during transport. For this reason nucs are picked up early in the day. Ideally they are transported in the car in AC. I'll make every effort to secure the box of bees. If you have a concern about bees escaping I suggest bringing a mesh laundry bag or similar breathable mesh or tulle fabric to cover the box. Bring a ratchet strap to secure the bees to your vehicle.
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Here is a detailed article about transporting and installing your nuc.
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What do I need to start beekeeping?
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I suggest finding an up to date beginner beekeeping book and read the entire thing. This will help you get familiar with your needs and what to expect.
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List of Basics
Veil
Gloves
Hive Tool
Smoker
Feeder (for sugar syrup)
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Bee Hive including...
Top
Inner cover
Brood boxes (8 frame or 10, Deeps or Mediums)
Honey Supers (8 frame or 10, Deeps or Mediums)
Bottom Board (solid or screened)
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How do I know if I need a queen?
Here is a great video from NC State University about how to tell if you have or need a replacement queen. Continue watching to find out more about what goes into raising queens.
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I have a LAYING WORKER HIVE. Will a queen fix it?
No. They will not likely accept her.
- When there is no queen and no open worker brood in the hive the workers ovaries begin to develop and they become laying workers, the new drone laying "queens" of the hive. This is a biological reaction to save the hives genetics and is not a matter of if, but when and in my experience happens around week 5 (plus or minus) after the queen is gone, about 3-4 weeks after the last worker larva is capped. Once a hive goes "laying worker" The hive will no longer want to accept a queen as they see themselves as having one.If you have another hive it never hurts to add a frame of open worker larva and eggs from another hive (without bees). The pheromone from the open brood suppresses the ovaries of the workers from developing. Add open brood once a week until they start drawing queen cells and then you can let them try to raise her (with a 60%-70% odds typically of successful return from mating flight) or cut the cells and order your new queen.
Why do I need a queen?
Reasons for purchasing queens:
1. Increase - For splits to increase the size of your apiary and make more colonies.
2. Genetics - to try out new genetics or change the temperament of a colony.
3.Emergency - These queens are for if your hive swarmed and the new queen didn't make it back from her mating flight or if the queen was accidentally killed and you prefer to keep the hive queen-right rather than take your chances with them raising a new one. Replacing the queen quickly can be especially important if its your only bee hive because if the new queen doesn't make it back from her mating flight you can end up in laying worker territory without resources from another hive to save them. (See Laying Worker topic). Chance of acceptance goes down when they are purchased for emergencies.
Why do I need a queen?
Reasons for purchasing queens:
1. Increase - For splits to increase the size of your apiary and make more colonies.
2. Genetics - to try out new genetics or change the temperament of a colony.
3.Emergency - These queens are for if your hive swarmed and the new queen didn't make it back from her mating flight or if the queen was accidentally killed and you prefer to keep the hive queen-right rather than take your chances with them raising a new one. Replacing the queen quickly can be especially important if its your only bee hive because if the new queen doesn't make it back from her mating flight you can end up in laying worker territory without resources from another hive to save them. (See Laying Worker topic). Chance of acceptance goes down when they are purchased for emergencies.